Steve, Beatriz And Columbus

Zara and I have now arrived in Santa Cruz, regional capital city of Tenerife. We have spent an enjoyable hour driving there along the Island's scenic motorway, accompanied by spectacular ocean and mountain views as far as the eye can see. On our journey I have shared with my English niece the history of this Island (see post A Place Called Chinet).  Now is time for something that supersedes even the most fascinating of history lessons: Lunch.

'I had no idea that there was so much rich history on this Island', Zara tells me over lunch, 'Most visitors just think of Tenerife as a holiday resort where you come for sun, sea and sand. If only they knew a half of what you have told me', she continues. I laugh and tell her that I have just shared a small fraction of what there is to know and that we will continue with the history lesson on our return drive back to the southern tip of the Island. But while we are here in Santa Cruz, it's a good a place as any to tell her that the famous Battle of Santa Cruz was fought right here in July of 1979; Rear Admiral Horatio Nelson of the Royal Navy launched an assault on the Spanish port city of Santa Cruz on July 22nd. Fast forward to three days later on 25th July, and the English have been roundly defeated and the remains of the English landing party withdraw having lost several hundred men and Nelson himself that infamous arm amputated after a serious injury, and forever after reminding him of his spectacular failure at Santa Cruz. Spain one England nil.  'I never knew that Nelson lost his arm in Tenerife, and I studied History at Advanced Level! ' Zara exclaims. Well now you do, I reply. No day trip is nowadays complete without the obligatory selfie, so after our lunch has been eaten, my niece photographs and I happily oblige. 

Shopping is next on our agenda, and accordingly we walk the short distance to the elegant El Corte Ingles department store. It's a very up-market establishment and not dissimilar to Selfridge's in London, or Gallery Lafayette in Paris and I am in need of a dress for the upcoming nuptials of my son, Hugo to Julia, his Finnish fiancée. They will be marrying in Helsinki this coming summer and I am still dress-less. But not for long, because I set my eyes on a fitted creation which as soon as I try on screams, 'Buy me'. Which of course I do. The dress label says size six UK or thirty-four European and I have never fitted into such a tiny outfit in all my adult life, but my nineteen-year-old niece turned personal shopper informs me that the size eight does not fit snugly, so a size six it is. And I contemplate the valley of tears that has unfolded before me enabling me to fit into this dream creation; valleys of tears which I would have happily circumnavigated and remained the two dress sizes larger, but this life is not for us to choose, rather it chooses us, and we must accept our assigned path with grace and dignity (see post Cars With Memories). The dress is perfect, and I will happily wear it on Hugo and Julia's big day along with my Steve Maddens. 

Now, please do not worry, I also did not know who Steve Madden was until four months ago when I visited the Stockmann department store in Helsinki (the Finnish equivalent of Selfridges, or the very Corte Ingles that I am in at this very moment), to buy some flat walking shoes. And then I set eyes on them and the flat walking shoes faded into utter oblivion; as if by fate or destiny, the most amazing designer shoes cross my path, and at that moment I know that just as with this dress they have to be mine. My Lithuanian guide girlfriend, Tatanja soon invites me to the Helsinki Concert Hall to join her at a concert of the Radio Symphony Orchestra, and I happily acquiesce and take along my Steve Maddens. Big mistake. I cannot remember ever having walked in such monumentally high heels and am unable to take a step in any direction without toppling over. I am about as graceful as an elephant on stilts. Not to be deterred, I shuffle along the entire evening like an elegantly dressed Japanese Geisha with bricks strapped to her delicate feet. Enormous queues slowly accumulate behind me wherever I walk. I cannot reach my seat in a timely fashion and neither can anyone else unfortunate enough to be stuck behind me. My profuse apologies do little to help. Who is this foreign woman that does not know how to do something as simple as putting one foot in front of the other? my perplexed fellow concert visitors discretely ask one another in hushed tones. Miraculously we all somehow make it to our seats just before the lights dim and the concert begins. A most pleasant evening is enjoyed by all, including not least of all by myself smugly clad in my Steve Maddens.

But shuffling long is no longer an issue. My Steve Maddens and I are now on intimate terms and I can happily walk in them effortlessly, anywhere. Well, almost. And I also have my dress. I send the shop assistant to another corner of the store to find me a suitable bag, whilst Zara and I pick out a hairpiece, and after a while I have my complete wedding outfit gathered. Mission accomplished. As I pay for my expensive dress along with handbag and hairpiece, I make a mental note to share some critical advice with forthcoming bride, Julia: Under no circumstances let Hugo see your wedding dress before the big day. It will only bring bad luck and I should know; I let Hugo's Finnish Papa button me up on the morning of the wedding just before we left for the church. We were both staying at his parents' home in Helsinki (in separate rooms of course), and I just could not reach the upper-most button on the back of my dress, so I sensibly called him into my room to for ask for assistance. And look at me now. Divorced! I should have just gone through the entire ceremony top-most button undone. No-one but me would have noticed, after all, my long hair covered it. But no, I insisted otherwise. Drat that button.

                            

Our Santa Cruz visit is soon over, and after placing my precious purchases in the back of the car, we begin the return drive towards the southern tip of the Island. Our next port of call will be the Las Americas Tourist resort and to one of Zara's favourite beaches, the Playa del Duque for a well-deserved afternoon swim. But a drive of around forty minutes still separate us from the beach bestowing us with sufficient time to continue with our Island history lesson. And so I continue as Zara intently listens;


Even the Island's name of Tenerife has its historical origins pre-dating the arrival of the Spaniards. In ancient times the Island was called a variation of Achinech, Achined or Chinet by the local Guanche population. The name of Tenerife widely used today originates from the neigbouring island of La Palma and its original inhabitants. Upon seeing the Teide volcanoe majestically rising out of the nearby sister Island above the clouds with its often snowy-capped peak, the Island became known as Tene e ife or 'Of the White Mountain' (from the words Tene meaning mountain and Ife meaning white). After the conquest by the Spaniards, the name was simplified by connecting the two words with an r so creating the word Tenerife which we all use today. 

I cannot possibly conclude today's lesson without some information also about La Gomera, the neighbouring Island where Zara's Grandma (and my Mama) was born, for this too forms part of our mutual cultural heritage. And so the next part of the history lesson continues as I press the accelerator on this stunning Autopista with Vista, Motorway with a View (see post Autopista With Vista). On the 6th September 1492, Christopher Columbus set sail from La Gomera on his now-legendary voyage of discovery, eventually arriving at lands which we today know as 'America', To this day, La Gomera is still known as 'The Colombine Island'. In the capital city of San Sebastian it is possible to visit the home where Columbus stayed during his time on the island, the location of the church at which he prayed for safe deliverance, and the well that he drew water from for ships' provisions and to consecrate any new lands he might stumble on. And stumble he did. But, why did Columbus choose La Gomera to stop off on his voyage of discovery? Why not another Island, a bigger one such as Tenerife?  Well, for a start, the conquest of the Canary Islands by the Spaniards had not yet been completed by the time Columbus set sail on his historic voyage of 1492. It would still take another four years before the Guanche Kingdom of Chinet or Tenerife, would bow down before the Conquistadores as the last of the Canary Islands to submit to Spanish rule (see post A Place Called Chinet). Plus also there was the small detail of a beautiful woman called Beatriz, and this is the story of Beatriz de Bobadilla and Christopher Columbus.

Beatriz de Bobadilla was the young widow of Herman de Bobadilla, former Spanish Governor of La Gomera and living a lonely life on Tenerife's neighbouring island when on August 9th, 1492, Christopher Columbus arrived with his trio of vessels, The Niña, The Pinta and the Santa Maria. Columbus planned to carry out essential ship repairs as well as to gather provisions for the long and unknown voyage ahead, and La Gomera is still known to this day as 'The Colombine Island'. In the capital city of San Sebastian it is possible to retrace the trailblazing adventurer's steps; The home where Columbus stayed during his time on the island, the location of the original church at which he prayed for safe deliverance, as well as the well that he drew water from for ships' provisions and to consecrate any new lands he might stumble on. And stumble he did, on soil eventually christened 'America'. Attesting to this monumental link between Old and New World, the city's coat of arms is adorned with the words, 'From here Columbus set out'. 

Rumour says that Columbus was already familiar with the legendary beauty of Beatriz, having met her previously at the court of the Spanish King and Queen. He was not alone in his admiration, for apparently much to the ire of Queen Isabel, her husband, King Ferdinand was also not immune to the womanly charms of this stunning beauty. So much so, that Queen Isabel took the decision to marry Beatriz off to the nobleman Herman de Bobadilla, and in doing so expelled her love rival to the farthest corner of the Spanish empire, the Canary Islands. For a lady of noble birth used to a life of privilege at the Spanish court, this was tantamount to being exiled to the farthest corner of the Planet. Columbus' arrival on the island in August of 1492 must have served to dispel a lot of the boredom and frustration of this noble lady, languishing in enforced widowhood, yet having lost none of her captivating beauty. 

But why did he not set sail until nearly a month later on September 6th,1492. Why did he delay his departure for so long? Historians repeatedly ask this question with no concrete answer to date. Mama's elder brother, Uncle Fernando pronounces his opinion on a matter that has baffled historians for centuries with one impacting word: 'Beatriz'. Studying a rare surviving painting of Beatriz herself, I realise that she was indeed a stunning beauty. No wonder that Columbus was intoxicated by her, and I cannot but wholly agree with Uncle Fernando (see post Columbus And The Missing Gravestone). However, squeaky clean and beautiful this story is not, for Beatriz was also known by the local Guanche population as La Dama Sangrienta or Bloody Beatriz. In 1488, after her husband, the equally ruthless Governor of the Island, Don Hernan Peraza had been ambushed and killed by the Guanches on his way to a clandestine meeting with beautiful Guanche princess Yballa, Beatriz exacted her own pitiless revenge: All males from the Guanche tribes directly implicated in her husband's death were ordered to be executed, and the men, women and children from the remaining tribes were enslaved. This was too much even for the Catholic Bishop of the Canaries, who denounced these immense acts of cruelty at the Court of the Spanish Kings. As so often happens, beauty without but not within.

Stunning island scenery fleetingly passes by us on our drive southwards, only to equally swiftly vanish. Beatriz is similarly consigned to the preceding moment, for now we turn our attention to another fascinating topic and this is called linguistics; Despite the fact that the Canary Islands are surrounded by water at every turn and an abundance of trees, ready material for the construction of vessels, the Guanches did not astonishingly possess any seafaring skills. This effectively means that each Island developed its own distinct culture, and this difference is most visible on the Island of La Gomera with their unique language called El Silbo, or The Whistle. El Silbo developed as an efficient way for the Islanders to communicate with one another, living as they did in isolated valley communities and separated from one another by elevated mountain ranges. It was way easier to climb to the top of the nearest mountain peak and whistle your message across to the people in the adjacent valley, rather than trekking all the way up the mountain and down again to get the same message delivered.

Mama tells me that, as a young girl she remembers listening to the people in the villages communicating with one another in this way and thought nothing of it until her later years when its uniqueness finally dawned on her. Indeed, El Silbo, or The Whistle is still keenly studied by linguists and anthropologists from around the world and the language has nowadays been revived by its inclusion as part of the school curriculum for the Island's school children. How interesting, Zara tells me, I had never heard about Beatriz nor the Whistle language. Did you share this with Hugo and Sofia? she asks me. Of course, I tell her, we are after all descended from this very tribe of Columbine Whistlers. And true as it may be, we cannot but laugh at the idea.

Just as with the fleeting scenery, Beatriz, Columbus and the Whistle language all soon fade away into obscurity, for we have now reached the monolithic tourist resort of Playa de las Americas. Our long-awaited appointment at the Playa del Duque beach for a well-deserved afternoon swim has arrived

To be continued.....


Next post published on Sunday 1st December : The Banana Bunch

Note: All written content is the intellectual property of this Author. Image material is drawn largely from Pixabay with some additions from private family archives.

A Place Called Chinet

As we continue with our breath-taking drive towards the North of the Island, I happily share with Zara the ancient history of the Canary Islands (see post Autopista With Vista). Join us on this captivating journey back in time.

 

Located on approximately latitude twenty-eight, the seven islands that make up the Canaries (Lanzarote, Fuerteventure, El Hierro, La Gomera, La Palma, Gran Canaria and Tenerife) bathe in the warm waters of the Atlantic Ocean and only sixty miles or ninety kilometres separate them from nearby Morocco. The conquest of the Islands by the Spanish crown, not an easy task considering the fierce resistance of the local aboriginal population, took place between the years 1402 and 1496 beginning with the Island of Lanzarote and ending with the Island of Tenerife, finally conquered after much bloodshed between the years 1494-1496. By the time of Tenerife's capitulation, four years had elapsed since Christopher Columbus' historical voyage from the neighbouring Island of La Gomera to new lands that would eventually be christened America. When the Spaniards arrived on the Islands in the early fourteen hundreds to begin their slow and steady conquest, they stumbled upon an aboriginal stone-aged people living a seemingly primitive life based on shepherding, fruit gathering, and very limited agriculture. They spoke an unfathomable language, lived in caves hewn out of the soft volcanic rock and worshipped heathen Gods. These people are what we know today as The Guanches.

The Spaniards were astonished to find that some of these native inhabitants were just as fair haired, blue-eyed and tall as they themselves. Nowadays, Guanche is taken to refer to the indigenous population all seven islands, but its original name stems from the Guanche word GuanChinet referring only to the inhabitant of Tenerife ('Guan' meaning Person, and 'Chinet' meaning Tenerife). The origins of the Guanches are still shrouded in mystery, however modern DNA technological advances have significantly contributed towards resolving this centuries-long puzzle, and nowadays it is widely concurred that the Guanche tribes of the Canary Islands seem to be most closely related to the Moroccan Berbers of North Africa. This seems to be a wholly logical conclusion, for the Guanche spoken by these ancient Island people shares an astonishing similarity in vocabulary with the Berber language of today.

But this ancestry has still not been conclusively proved, and there are various competing theories expounding differing origins. Some scholars maintain that the Canarian population are Punic-Phoenician by origin, others claim that this is impossible since the Islands remained uninhabited until 100BC when Greek and Roman sailors began to explore the area. Yet another school of thought claims that during the second half of the 1st century BC, King Juba II of Numidia abandoned North African prisoners on the islands, who eventually became the pre-Hispanic Canarians of the Guanche tribes. If the first inhabitants were indeed abandoned prisoners, then this would go part way to explain their lack of navigational skills, for this is another stunning mystery surrounding the origins of these natives. Upon their arrival on the isIand, the Spaniards were met by a people who had no navigational skills whatsoever even though they were surrounded by water at every turn and abundant material in the form of trees for the construction of vessels. This effectively isolated the natives of each of the seven Island into secluded community with no external interaction, which in turn created unique insular cultures each with their own distinct linguistic evolution.

The Guanches are genetically most closely related to the Berbers of North Africa, but the latter were not known to have significant navigational skills. So how did the Guanches arrive on the Islands in the first place? This is still today an unresolved mystery, one which even Thor Heyerdahl weighed in on as he passed the Island on his famous Ra Expeditions of 1969 and 1970. But arrive from somewhere they most certainly did, for archaeological finds conclusively prove that the original settlers arrived by sea, importing domestic animals such as goats, sheep, pigs, and dogs, and cereals such as wheat, barley and lentils. They also brought with them a set of well-defined socio-cultural practices that seem to have originated and been in use for a long period of time elsewhere such as the mummifying of corpse, the practise of euthanasia on the infirm and elderly, and last but not least, human sacrifice and infanticide.

At the time of the conquest Tenerife was divided up into nine separate kingdoms or Mencayatos according to the Guanche name, each with their own King or Mencey, and here is the map outlining them: Daute, Adeja, Abona, Guimar, Icod, Taoro, Tacoronte, Tegueste and Anaga with a centre area of communal pastureland surrounding the imposing Teide Volcano.The Mencey was the ultimate ruler of each kingdom, and meetings were regularly held between them to discuss matters of common importance, but it seems that the supreme Mencey above all others was that of the kingdom of Taoro, nowadays located in the rich and fertile Valley of the Orovata. 'I didn't know any of this', Zara tells me.' It's absolutely fascinating!' Well listen carefully, I tell Zara, because this is just the beginning, and I continue with my island saga; When the Spaniards (or more precisely Castilians as they were known) initiated their conquest of Tenerife, the four kingdoms around the Western and Eastern coast of the Island, Anaga, Guimar, Abona and Adeje all aligned themselves with the Castilian invaders on the promise of the lands in the north where the climate is rainier and the soil richer. These four kingdoms became known as La banda de Paz, The Band for Peace. The remaining five kingdoms of Daute, Icod, Taoro, Tacoronte, Tegueste all rejected the overtures of the Spaniards, fiercely opposing their occupation with force and becoming known as La Banda de Guerra, The Band for War.

Bencomo, the supreme Mencey of the kingdom of Taoro took the lead of the aboriginal resistance against the Castilian invasion, a role which earned him the alias of Great King. Nowadays there is a statue in the port town of Candelaria commemorating this great warrior and Mencey King who dared to stand up to the invading Spaniards. In May 1494, he fought in the legendary First Battle of Acentejo, a monumental victory for the Guanches and where the Spanish enemy were for the first time heavily defeated. Today, a town in the north of the Island named La Matanza, The Slaughter, commemorates this historical event. After the untimely death of Bencomo, his son Bentor replaced him as supreme warrior, but even he was unable to stem the tide of invasion. After a series of bloody battles, most notably the Second Battle of Acentejo in December 1495, the Guanches were forced to capitulate. The town of La Victoria, The Victory, bears witness to this last and decisive confrontation between the conquering Spaniards and native Guanche population. By early 1496 Tenerife was under absolute Spanish control and the conquest of the Canary Islands was now complete. Spain was now the undisputed superpower of Europe, and alongside the dazzling territories of the New World brought to them by Christopher Columbus, they were now Lord and Master of all seven Canary Islands. The Island kingdoms ceased to exist and the Guanches were now subordinate vassals of the Spanish Empire.

The hour-long drive has fleeted by almost imperceptibly, immersed as we have been in our rich history lesson and we have now reached Santa Cruz, capital city of the Island since 1833. As we park our vehicle, I realise it is also the perfect location for the next part of my history lesson: The Battle of Santa Cruz where Lord Nelson famously lost his arm. But before that we have something of greater importance that overrides even this new historical gem, and this is called Lunch.

To be continued...

Next post 20th October : Steve, Beatriz And Columbus

Note: All written content is the intellectual property of this Author. Image material is drawn largely from Pixabay with some additions from private family archives.