Spanning three generations, 'Share The Moon' is the family saga of one girl, one moon and three lives; one Spanish, one English and one Finnish. Blended together into a captivating life journey and infused with tenderness and humor, each post can be read as an individual stand-alone piece. To read the complete adventure start from the very first post, 'Share The Moon', and simply work your way upwards. Welcome to my journey on the first Sunday of every month!

Sunday 18 June 2017

A Place Called Chinet

As we continue with our breath-taking drive towards the North of the Island, I happily share with Zara the ancient history of the Canary Islands (see post Autopista With Vista). Join us on this captivating journey back in time.


 

Located on approximately latitude twenty-eight, the seven islands that make up the Canaries (Lanzarote, Fuerteventure, El Hierro, La Gomera, La Palma, Gran Canaria and Tenerife) bathe in the warm waters of the Atlantic Ocean and only sixty miles or ninety kilometres separate them from nearby Morocco. The conquest of the Islands by the Spanish crown, not an easy task considering the fierce resistance of the local aboriginal population, took place between the years 1402 and 1496 beginning with the Island of Lanzarote and ending with the Island of Tenerife, finally conquered after much bloodshed between the years 1494-1496. By the time of Tenerife's capitulation, four years had elapsed since Christopher Columbus' historical voyage from the neighbouring Island of La Gomera to new lands that would eventually be christened America. When the Spaniards arrived on the Islands in the early fourteen hundreds to begin their slow and steady conquest, they stumbled upon an aboriginal stone-aged people living a seemingly primitive life based on shepherding, fruit gathering, and very limited agriculture. They spoke an unfathomable language, lived in caves hewn out of the soft volcanic rock and worshipped heathen Gods. These people are what we know today as The Guanches.



The Spaniards were astonished to find that some of these native inhabitants were just as fair haired, blue-eyed and tall as they themselves. Nowadays, Guanche is taken to refer to the indigenous population all seven islands, but its original name stems from the Guanche word GuanChinet referring only to the inhabitant of Tenerife ('Guan' meaning Person, and 'Chinet' meaning Tenerife). The origins of the Guanches are still shrouded in mystery, however modern DNA technological advances have significantly contributed towards resolving this centuries-long puzzle, and nowadays it is widely concurred that the Guanche tribes of the Canary Islands seem to be most closely related to the Moroccan Berbers of North Africa. This seems to be a wholly logical conclusion, for the Guanche spoken by these ancient Island people shares an astonishing similarity in vocabulary with the Berber language of today.



But this ancestry has still not been conclusively proved, and there are various competing theories expounding differing origins. Some scholars maintain that the Canarian population are Punic-Phoenician by origin, others claim that this is impossible since the Islands remained uninhabited until 100BC when Greek and Roman sailors began to explore the area. Yet another school of thought claims that during the second half of the 1st century BC, King Juba II of Numidia abandoned North African prisoners on the islands, who eventually became the pre-Hispanic Canarians of the Guanche tribes. If the first inhabitants were indeed abandoned prisoners, then this would go part way to explain their lack of navigational skills, for this is another stunning mystery surrounding the origins of these natives. Upon their arrival on the isIand, the Spaniards were met by a people who had no navigational skills whatsoever even though they were surrounded by water at every turn and abundant material in the form of trees for the construction of vessels. This effectively isolated the natives of each of the seven Island into secluded community with no external interaction, which in turn created unique insular cultures each with their own distinct linguistic evolution.
 



The Guanches are genetically most closely related to the Berbers of North Africa, but the latter were not known to have significant navigational skills. So how did the Guanches arrive on the Islands in the first place? This is still today an unresolved mystery, one which even Thor Heyerdahl weighed in on as he passed the Island on his famous Ra Expeditions of 1969 and 1970. But arrive from somewhere they most certainly did, for archaeological finds conclusively prove that the original settlers arrived by sea, importing domestic animals such as goats, sheep, pigs, and dogs, and cereals such as wheat, barley and lentils. They also brought with them a set of well-defined socio-cultural practices that seem to have originated and been in use for a long period of time elsewhere such as the mummifying of corpse, the practise of euthanasia on the infirm and elderly, and last but not least, human sacrifice and infanticide.






At the time of the conquest Tenerife was divided up into nine separate kingdoms or Mencayatos according to the Guanche name, each with their own King or Mencey, and here is the map outlining them: Daute, Adeja, Abona, Guimar, Icod, Taoro, Tacoronte, Tegueste and Anaga with a centre area of communal pastureland surrounding the imposing Teide Volcano.The Mencey was the ultimate ruler of each kingdom, and meetings were regularly held between them to discuss matters of common importance, but it seems that the supreme Mencey above all others was that of the kingdom of Taoro, nowadays located in the rich and fertile Valley of the Orovata. 'I didn't know any of this', Zara tells me.' It's absolutely fascinating!' Well listen carefully, I tell Zara, because this is just the beginning, and I continue with my island saga; When the Spaniards (or more precisely Castilians as they were known) initiated their conquest of Tenerife, the four kingdoms around the Western and Eastern coast of the Island, Anaga, Guimar, Abona and Adeje all aligned themselves with the Castilian invaders on the promise of the lands in the north where the climate is rainier and the soil richer. These four kingdoms became known as La banda de Paz, The Band for Peace. The remaining five kingdoms of Daute, Icod, Taoro, Tacoronte, Tegueste all rejected the overtures of the Spaniards, fiercely opposing their occupation with force and becoming known as La Banda de Guerra, The Band for War.




Bencomo, the supreme Mencey of the kingdom of Taoro took the lead of the aboriginal resistance against the Castilian invasion, a role which earned him the alias of Great King. Nowadays there is a statue in the port town of Candelaria commemorating this great warrior and Mencey King who dared to stand up to the invading Spaniards. In May 1494, he fought in the legendary First Battle of Acentejo, a monumental victory for the Guanches and where the Spanish enemy were for the first time heavily defeated. Today, a town in the north of the Island named La Matanza, The Slaughter, commemorates this historical event. After the untimely death of Bencomo, his son Bentor replaced him as supreme warrior, but even he was unable to stem the tide of invasion. After a series of bloody battles, most notably the Second Battle of Acentejo in December 1495, the Guanches were forced to capitulate. The town of La Victoria, The Victory, bears witness to this last and decisive confrontation between the conquering Spaniards and native Guanche population. By early 1496 Tenerife was under absolute Spanish control and the conquest of the Canary Islands was now complete. Spain was now the undisputed superpower of Europe, and alongside the dazzling territories of the New World brought to them by Christopher Columbus, they were now Lord and Master of all seven Canary Islands. The Island kingdoms ceased to exist and the Guanches were now subordinate vassals of the Spanish Empire





The hour-long drive has fleeted by almost imperceptibly, immersed as we have been in our rich history lesson and we have now reached Santa Cruz, capital city of the Island since 1833. As we park our vehicle, I realise it is also the perfect location for the next part of my history lesson: The Battle of Santa Cruz where Lord Nelson famously lost his arm. But before that we have something of greater importance that overrides even this new historical gem, and this is called Lunch.




To be continued...

Next post 2nd July : Steve, Beatriz And Colombus

Note: All written content is the intellectual property of this Author. Image material is drawn largely from Pixabay with some additions from private family archives.


Sunday 4 June 2017

Autopista With Vista




It’s still early morning in San Juan, and Zara and I have just finished our breakfast as a new day dawns at home and in Tenerife. I have finally overcome my fear of driving on the Island’s ubiquitous serpentine roads and am now a confident Woman with Wheels (see post Woman with Wheels).  


Mama says that she may as well make good use of her daughter's new status as family chauffeur and asks that I take her to the Lidl store in the nearby village of Puerto Santiago, it's just too cumbersome by bus. I happily promise but it will have to be tomorrow, because today is Exploration Day. My English niece still has another free day before she returns to her job as receptionist at the Blue Lagoon Hotel, and we accordingly make the most of this liberty by planning a day crammed with activity: We will drive northwards towards the capital city of Santa Cruz, and upon our return back towards San Juan we will drive along the coastline towards the enormous adjacent tourist resorts of Los Cristianos and Playa de las Americas. The resorts are only a thirty minute drive away from our breakfast table, but compared to the sleepy Canarian village that we have just awoken in, it may as well be on another planet.  Zara tells me that she wants to take me to her favourite beach in the Las Americas resort called, La Playa del Duque. And of course I happily oblige. It's not everyday that aunt and neice have the opportunity of spending a quality day together driving around a beautiful island paradise that we both call home.




But, before we can begin our exploration adventure there is the little business of driving to the Magistrates in Los Cristianos, El Juzgado to obtain for Zara some documentation required by the HR department at the Blue Lagoon hotel. I have never driven there before and am therefore clueless. Zara in turn has only the vaguest of ideas, so is unable to illuminate me further. Now, I am renting a car on this Island for the first time in my life, so I have already achieved an enormous goal. Learning to use a navigator to help get me where I want with my vehicle will be my second goal, but today I do not quite feel up to the challenge, so I decide to ask Mama. She will know, she always does. And I am not disappointed. She is still in the kitchen finishing breakfast, and after I approach her with my request for precise directions she proceeds to rattle off a series of verbal instructions which perplex me even more. So I ask Mama to simply draw me a map, and this is what we she presents me with:




Zara and I look at Mama's detailed driving instructions with astonishment. Who needs Google maps when you have a woman with this set of awesome map drawing skills? Mama tells us not to lose the map. She can share with one of her girlfriends from the Beach Club if one them need instructions on how to get to the same place. We promise to take great care of this precious document and look at one another and smile. And we gather our bags and phones, kiss Mama on either cheek Spanish style and we are on our way.  The journey to the magistrates is successfully navigated using this amazing piece of encrypted technology which we carefully put away for possible future reference as Mama requested, and after our visit is concluded we are free to begin our new day of exploration as Women With Wheels.




Tenerife is a mountainous island with the Teide Volcano rising majestically from its centre to an altitude of 3.7 kilometres above sea level and so making it the second highest peak in Europe after Mont Blanc in France. The Island's motorways skirt along the coastline and in doing so avoid this colossall giant. Our drive northwards is captivatingly beautiful with stunning scenery at every turn. Zara calls it an autopista with vista, a motorway with a view, which indeed it is. If we look right we are met with the deep blue Atlantic waters and if we look left, we have brightly coloured Canarian homes dotted along the mountainous landscape.  Life is good and we women are happy. I tell Zara that this is indeed food for the soul. How can you not feel happiness surrounded by such immense beauty, and my mind begins to explore this intriguing state of emotion. Happiness really is an abstract concept; it means different things to different people and is near impossible to quantify in any absolute or concrete manner. The greatest happiness comes not from material, but rather from immaterial things, such as the feeling created by a good moment with a person or a place. A moment such as now.






Place names successively pass us by in a blur as I press the accelerator and Zara immerses herself in a map of the Island she has brought along. To me, it is crammed with familiar towns and villages from my childhood, but staring out at Zara from the sheet of paper is a cascade of unintelligible names; Guimar, Tacoronte, Chio, Tegueste, Tamaimo. They don’t sound very Spanish, she points out looking up from the map. That’s because they are not, I reply. They are names derived from the ancient language spoken by the indigenous population, the Guanches, way before the arrival and conquest of the Canary Islands by the Spanish in the fifteenth-century. Who are the Guanches, Zara asks. And just as Uncle Fernando did with me when we drove up the winding mountain road to the cemetery to locate Papa’s grave (see post Columbus And The Missing Gravestone), I proceed to momentarily take my eyes of the road ahead of me, turn to Zara and pause to say, My dear, do you really not know who the Guanches are? Through your Grandma and my Mama, their blood flows in both our veins, so you really need to plug this critical knowledge gap. And before I realise it, a history class opens up for  Zara as we drive along this beautiful autopista with vista, motorway with a view.





Located on approximately latitude twenty-eight, the seven islands that make up the Canaries (Lanzarote, Fuerteventure, El Hierro, La Gomera, La Palma, Gran Canaria and Tenerife) bathe in the warm waters of the Atlantic Ocean and only sixty miles or ninety kilometres separate them from nearby Morocco. The conquest of the Islands by the Spanish crown, not an easy task considering the fierce resistance of the local aboriginal population, took place between the years 1402 and 1496 beginning with the Island of Lanzarote and ending with the Island of Tenerife, finally conquered after much bloodshed between the years 1494-1496. By the time of Tenerife's capitulation, four years had elapsed since Christopher Columbus's historical voyage from the neighbouring Island of La Gomera to new lands that would eventually be christened America. When the Spaniards arrived on the Islands in the early fourteen hundreds to begin their slow and steady conquest, they stumbled upon an aboriginal stone-aged people living a seemingly primitive life based on shepherding, fruit gathering, and very limited agriculture. They spoke an unfathomable language, lived in caves hewn out of the soft volcanic rock and worshipped heathen Gods. These people are today known as The Guanches.

To be continued....

Next post 18th June:  A Place Called Chinet


Note: All written content is the intellectual property of this Author. Image material is drawn largely from Pixabay with some additions from private family archives.